Knitware Merchandising

Knitted Fabric Faults

Fabric Barriness

1. Barriness defect appears in the Knitted fabric in the form of horizontal stripes of uniform or variable width. 

2. Sometimes it is referred as barrie effect.

Broken needle

Horizontal Line

Fly Contamination

Pin Hole

Sinker Mark

Stains or Oil Line

Fabric Press Off

Lycra Out

Shade Variation or Uneven Shade

Crease Mark

Dye Spot

Dead Cotton

4 Point System for Fabric Inspection

It is a system developed by AAQC (American Association of Quality Control) and widely used for fabric inspection. In this method defected points are found out in 100 square yards of fabric by inspection. The fabric must be rejected if the defected points are greater than 40.

Defects Length

Points

Up to 3”

1

≥ 3" − ≤ 6"

2

≥ 6" − ≤ 9"

3

Above 9"

4

Any Hole

4

Spirality of Garments

Spirality appears in the form of a twisted garment, after washing. The seams on both the sides of the garment displace, from their position & appear on the front & back of the garment.

Spirality of Fabric

Spirality" arises from twist stress in the constituent yams of plain fabric, causing all loops to distort and throwing the fabric wales and courses into an angular relationship other than 90 degree. Inclination of loops within knitted structures is commonly known as spirality.

Problems of Spirality

❑ Displacement of the side seams to the back and front

❑ Mismatched patterns

❑ Asymmetrical necklines

❑ Inclined slits

❑ Cutting and sewing difficulties

❑ Decreases fabric utilization during cutting

❑ Spirality becomes more prominent when widthwise striping (cross over effect).

Measurement of Spirality of Garments

Final Inspection of Garments

❑ The AQL inspection takes the samples from a goods, inspect them and depends on the quality of samples inspected and decide to accept or reject them.

❑ In garments sector, single sampling plan of 2.5% and 4.0% AQL are mostly used.

Garments Defects

❑ Critical Defect such as metal part, fungus attack, label mistake etc. ( If any critical defect found garments lot will be rejected that means no consideration)

❑ Major defect (Mainly used in AQL)

❑ Minor defect ( Combindly 2 or 3 minor defects are considered as one major defect depends on buyer requirement )

❑ H&M buyer consider 3 minor as 1 major defect

Example

Assume AQL is 2.5% and lot size is 3500 garments, find out the following :

◦ The total number of samples need to inspect

◦ The acceptable