Luxury Brand

LUXURY BRANDS AND STANDARD

POPULATION

Introduction.

First Part: The industry of the luxury.

1 - History of the luxury

2 - General characteristics of the luxury.

3 - Principal actors of the luxury.

Second Part : luxury brands and general public.

1 - Identity of brand

2 - Communication of the luxury brands.

Ð'* Targets

Ð'* Positioning

Ð'* Strategy of the means

3 - Luxury and general public

Conclusion

Bibliography

Webography

Appendices

Introduction

One can describe as luxury all that exceeds the bare essential. It covers all that one considers superfluous and useless. But in the usual direction, luxury means ostentation and refinement in the manners of living (art of the table, elegant toilet, sumptuous decoration Ð'...). The luxury discusses and is acquired by great expenditure.

The philosophers of the Lights had divergent opinions concerning the luxury. Voltaire considered that that represented an essential support of the economy. Rousseau as for him saw the luxury like a principle of exploitation of the small people and the spring of all perversions, because the luxury is made to be admired, it dazzles.

We will see through our study how much industry luxury is a singular world in our economy: with very consequent sales turnovers, actors gathered in great powerful groups. We will also be interested in the luxury brands: with the identity of brands, the targets of those.

Finally we will analyze the risks for the luxury brand to fall into the hands of standard population. Isn't the luxury in the street for the greatest number, recent phenomenon, likely you it not to carry damage to the brands? These problems deserve to be posed because it returns to the identity and the image which the luxury brand wishes to give to itselfÐ'...

PART I

The industry of the luxury

Until the Middle Ages the writings tell us luxury which it was the reflection of the religious mystery which pushes the man to be exceeded by an offering or a sign. We will see how much the concept of going beyond remains, still today for the man, important when it is a question of having luxury.

But the blessed time of the luxury is without any doubt: the Rebirth (XVth and XVIth centuries), period of literary, artistic and scientific flowering. This time represents the tangible explosion of the luxury: sail of the sumptuous architecture inspired of Italy, progress of the ornaments of jewels. Also furniture becomes more luxurious; the art of the table avoids refinement. The luxury articles then remain rare objects, related exclusively on the Aristocracy and the Court.

With the Rebirth the luxury has a contrasted position. But thereafter it will become the prerogative of the Middle-class. It will take intellectual connotations, results of the great voyages from the time. It is also of this time that dates the luxury for the books, thanks to the work of the bookbinders.

Another strong time for the luxury: the XVIIIth century and the positive role of the Encyclopedia. This one treated in its chapters thoroughly: technical and industrial aspects of clothing and the accessories. The trades related to the industry of the luxury can then be shown with the eyes of all as to mean that the luxury is however reserved for elite.

At the XIXth century, the economic influence results in new forms of manufacture and distribution. The industry of the luxury is then made up brotherhoods of craftsmen, all having their distinctive signs. From this time one will retain especially, as Zola in "With the Happiness of the Ladies tells it", the opening of department stores symbolizes the democratization of the luxury.

XXth century will have to be waited, to see flowering in Paris, a multitude of small workshops of craftsmen, devoted to the trades of the luxury. In 1929, in spite of the economic crisis, the intellectual radiation of our country is preserved and Coconut Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin, Louis

Cartier are the kings and the queens that the "large ones" are torn off to get dressed or buy jewels.

But the war of 1939-1945 will carry a new blow to France and the development of the industry of the luxury. France will take again its place of leader of the industry of the luxury only per hour of the Release, thanks to: fashion in particular of Christian Dior and the "new look", per hour of the revolution zazou and the existentialism.

In the post-war period it will really be necessary to wait, the years 1950 and them assistances of the Marshall plan so that manufactures take again their activities. The textile comes then at the head from exports with nearly 20% to the value to the exported products, thanks to Parisian creations very appreciated on the other side of the Atlantic.

The period from May 68 reminds all, concerning the luxury, that it should not make forget the great technological stakes of the XXe century. Industrial development is from now on priority and proof is made by it by Pompidou itself: "Dear old France! Good kitchen! Madness-Shepherdesses! Merry-Paris! The High-Seam (Ð'....)! It is finished. France started and largely started an industrial revolution".

The Seventies were wiser years, years of centering. Fashion is enough conformist, nothing of shocking and nothing eccentric. These years of oil crisis were the period when the Arab emirs invade the jewelers and the large dressmakers.

The striking fact of the Eighties is at the level of the consumer of the luxury. The young people discover the luxury thanks to the accessories. We will see further in our study how much this phenomenon is still of topicality today. End of the year the 80 shops will multiply. The actors of the industry of the luxury are from now on conscious of the risk of competition. It becomes necessary to occupy all the crenels; to conquer new territories for fear the competitor does not occupy them.

The rather morose Nineties, years, did not save the luxury, which passed through a crisis however more psychological than economic. That will engage