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How To Surf

Essay by   •  November 11, 2010  •  740 Words (3 Pages)  •  1,182 Views

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Some would say it's like snowboarding, whereas others would say it's like skateboarding. I, on the other hand, believe surfing is unlike any other sport. Besides it being loads of fun and freeing your mind, it is also a great workout. Problem is, though, many people wonder how to get started and learn what to do. That's where I come in.

First, you need to know the safety precautions. You absolutely have to know how to swim and be able to swim well. If this is a problem for you, you can easily contact a nearby gym (like YMCA) for and instructor to teach you how. Another growing issue with surfing is the strong currents and tidal waves. There are ways to predict the safety of the water on that particular day, but for now, just ask the nearest lifeguard on duty.

Now that you know you are in no major harm, it is time to find the specifications on how you will surf. Stand up straight and point one of your arms to the sky. This is how long your board should be when you first start learning how to surf. As you get better, you may use shorter boards, which makes the ride a lot faster and thrilling. Next, you will test what stance you will acquire while on the board. To do this, lay your board flat on the sand, then position yourself face down on top of the board. Quickly jump up, and whichever foot is placed in front will be the same foot you lead with when you surf! If you lead with your left foot, you ride "regular," but if you rest your right foot ahead, you ride "goofy."

Now that you are equipped with all the needed knowledge to start surfing, you are ready to paddle out! As you are making your way out, you may encounter some large waves. These waves occasionally seem impossible to get around, but there is a way to dodge them. As you see a wave coming, wrap your arms tightly around the board, then flip you and your board over, therefore placing you underwater and your board turned upside down. Because the nose of the board is now pointed downward, the wave will smoothly bypass over you. When you see the wave disappear, you can then flip back over! It is also tricky knowing where to stop paddling and when to start waiting. You don't want to be too close to the shore, yet you don't want to be too far either! Positions change daily, and there are multiple

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