Surfing

Liquid Glass

When I was a strapping young thirteen year old, I had the chance to live on the beautiful island of Oahu. During my two year vacation on this luscious island I had the chance to experience the powerful force of the ocean waves crashing along the islandÐ'ÐŽÐ'¦s shores. One of the activities I participated in was the breath taking sport of body surfing. Taking part in enjoying this sport changed my view on the grace of nature. Body surfing surely counts among the most natural sports on earth. Nothing is more pure and free than gliding along a wall of beautiful ocean water. There is no equipment needed, just the inspiration and drive to experience the sport. Once you catch your first wave you experience a feeling like you never have before. There is no sensation that has ever occurred that matches the rush you get when sliding into a tube of perfection and grace. The tube that is created by water is a sacred place. To be inside one of these barrels is a privilege. You must treat the ocean with respect. Otherwise you will be unfortunate enough to be taken by the powers of the ocean and will be handled at its will.

One of the most famous body surfing beaches in the world in located on the east coast of Oahu. The coast is crawling with cliffs and rocky hill sides. The ocean crashes on the rocks and has carved beautiful sculptures over millions of years. The road leading to the beach is thin and windy, weaving through caves carved out from the volcanic rock. As soon as the first sight of sand is seen you have arrived at Sandy Beach. This beach is known for its bigger faster waves that create bigger tubes and more injuries. The waves at this beach have broken more necks than anywhere else in the world. It is the natural beauty that attracts inexperienced tourists from around the world. The waves crashing on the white sand more than invite them to get in the water. Once they are in the water it is often too late. The whipping rip tides often drag tourists into deeper water where they have to be rescued or swept in by an enormous wall of water. But for many the luscious surroundings are enough to satisfy the soul and they have no desire to flirt with the powers of the ocean.

For others being in the crystal blue ocean is a necessity of life. The adrenaline rushes that come from enduring water sports such as body surfing are the most exuberating feelings on earth. The idea of it is simply mind boggling. When nothing but your little head is floating above the enormous ocean surface, you have no control over what the ocean might throw at you. Imagine floating in the water as a fifteen foot wall of water roars towards you. There are two things a human can do. One is to swim to the ocean floor and clinch to the loose sand and hope the power of the wave doesnÐ'ÐŽÐ'¦t suck you over. The other thing to do is start swimming towards the beach. If you have the experience and the courage you will be lifted up and begin to slide down a wall of water. There is nothing on earth that can be compared to this feeling. As the water massages through your fingers and your toes you feel as one with ocean. Soon a wall will entrap the view of the lifeguard stand and become a room of liquid glass. As soon as you are inside the blue room, time freezes. You are inside of a balloon surrounded completely by water. There is no way to create this any other way. You are a part of one of the oceans beautiful